Traveling through Ladakh and Madhya Pradesh reveals just how closely food is tied to place in India. These two regions could not feel more different. Ladakh sits high in the Himalayas, where cold temperatures, thin air, and short growing seasons shape what people eat. Madhya Pradesh lies in central India, with forests, farmland, and a warmer climate that allows for a wide range of ingredients and bold flavors. In Ladakh, dishes are designed to warm the body and last through long winters. Since rice doesn’t grow that high up, barley is the grain of choice. In Madhya Pradesh, cooking is based on more traditional Indian techniques, like curries with rice.
In Ladakh, I tried foods meant to sustain people in cold, high-altitude conditions. Thukpa, a noodle soup with vegetables and sometimes meat, was filling and warming. Momos (dumplings) were common and comforting, especially after long days outdoors. I also tried tsampa, a roasted barley flour often mixed with tea or water, which is simple but incredibly energy-dense. People in Ladakh raise goats, and so milk and butter make up a major part of their diet. They even put butter in their tea!
In Madhya Pradesh, the food felt richer and more complex in flavor.
