I had the opportunity to visit Ourense to get a taste of the castañas during o magosto, Galicia’s famous “Chestnut Festival.” This festival is a good frame for the nature of Galicia, Spain’s unique Northwestern region full of its own traditions, language, and incredibly warm people.
Some friends and I hiked up to a mountain overlooking the city of Ourense (about 100 km away from Lugo). Some scattered tiles (azulejos) marked the entrance to a hidden path; over a ridge, the sound of gaita music and the smell of roasting chestnuts drifted towards us above the green trees.
We descended through the forest into a clearing—a grove of chestnut trees parted to make way for us—and found ourselves in o souto. It felt like diving into a Lord of the Rings novel, or stepping into a faerie ring of mushrooms that plunges you unexpectedly into a magical world.
About 70 galegos were gathered in the clearing around a bonfire—dancing, chatting, drinking, eating—to celebrate the changing of the seasons and the history of the chestnut tree with this tradition that goes all the way back to Celtic pagan rituals. Some adults had smeared ashes across their face in celebration, and elvin children ran wild, dipping sticks into the fire and brandishing their flaming tips with abandon at their siblings. Galician flags fluttered above us (we were debaixo da bandeira de Galicia) and I was able falar galego un poquiño with some of the guests of the party.
